Textile design  Giapp-Ora, 2015

Warp: thin cotton
Weft: thin wool from local sheep
2/2 twill, with a decorative motif in “fiocco pugliese” on the jacket

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Le Costantine weavers, Paola Besana wearing an old kimono suit and her assistant Giulia Pils modelling the Giapp-Ora prototype (Photo: Nicola Amato)
Old bedsheet in cotton and wool woven at Borgagne in the early 1900s
The trousers and kimono jacket that inspired me (Photo: Nicola Amato)
Tensioning the warp (Photo: Mauro Lovecchio)
Threading the heddles and reed at the same time (Photo: Mauro Lovecchio)
Sample of Giapp-Ora woven with different materials (notice the different shrinking)
Rosalba sewing Giapp-Ora (Photo: Nicola Amato)
Rosalba fitting the Giapp-Ora jacket on Giulia (Photo: Nicola Amato)
The relief motif ('fiocco pugliese') on the Giapp-Ora jacket

Here’s another object designed by me and woven and assembled at the Fondazione Le Costantine laboratory. We were inspired by an old bedsheet belonging to Signora Enza Tasca of Borgagne, which had been woven by her mother-in-law in the early 1900s. This kind of cloth was very common all over rural Italy and being sturdy and warm it was also used for work trousers. The old bedsheet was formed by three lengths of cloth joined together, each 70 cm wide. The warp was cotton, sett at 14 epc, and the weft handspun local wool. We though that ageless cloth lent itself to many modern uses and had the right width for ageless yet stylish garments or furnishing material. We reproduced it using a warp in very thin cotton with a fairly dense sett and a weft in a naturally coloured local wool that was softer than the original one. This wool might in future be produced in a range of colours and it would be nice to go back to natural dyes, perhaps with the help of local old women. The garment we planned was a pair of tie waist trousers and a kimono jacket, a simple but elegant unisex ensemble.